Momo

The dish that catches everyone's eye as it hits the table is the signature chicken karaage. Prepared with an entire half of a chicken thigh, it arrives crisp and aromatic on the outside, available plain or with assorted seasonings like grated daikon and house sauces. Alongside oversized rice balls that take two hands to hold, it makes clear why diners come here hungry.

The smaller dishes show equal attention to detail. Choices include a 5-item daily appetizer sampler, rolled dashi omelets, French fries seasoned with salt or rosemary, and deep-fried cream cheese tempura. The drinks list keeps pace with draft beer, highballs, sours, wine, sake, and shochu, offering easy pairings across the board.

Set on the 2th floor of a Shinjuku-sanchome building, Momo maintains a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere. While dinner seats fill up fast and make reservations worthwhile, the kitchen also serves weekday lunch from Monday to Thursday with plates like Hayashi rice. It is a comfortable spot to keep in mind when sharing generous platters over drinks with friends.